Sunday, July 26, 2009

Top of the Morning to You

It's Sunday night and I am exhausted.  Cathy and I are at our cousin's house in Dublin.  I fly to Munich, Germany at 7am tomorrow morning.  Because I am exhausted and it's late, I'm going to keep this short.  So here goes:

Tuesday Cathy and I and our cousins went by the grocery store to buy supplies.  Then Cathy and I headed out.  A lot of our adventure was just the driving and exploring.  We would pass something and randomly decide to stop.  We tended to avoid bigger cities b/c we prefer the small villages.  Some things I took pics of, I'm not exactly sure what they are.  Anyway, we drove through Dublin and then through the Wicklow Mountains.  We spent about 2 hours exploring Glendalough. Glendalough is a glacial valley located in County WicklowIreland, renowned for its Early Medieval monastic settlement founded in the 6th century by St Kevin, a hermit priest, and destroyed in 1398 by English troops.  It was magical and mystical and beautiful.  We stayed at a bed & breakfast nearby for that night.  It was quite big with 2 separate rooms and a cute, friendly dog outside.  Actually, every B&B we stayed at had a cute dog.  We had a great view overlooking the Wicklow Mountains.  We went to a pub for dinner and started with some Guiness.  I LOVE Guiness.  I don't like how it tastes in the states but it tastes wonderful fresh from Ireland. 

Glendalough: 



Wednesday morning we went back to Glendalough and hiked for another 2 hours.  Then we headed past Kilkenny and Cork and landed in Kinsale on the water.  Kinsale is a historic, medieval town on the coast.  It has adorable narrow tiny streets.  We capped off our night grabbing some drinks in a local pub with some Irish live music.  

Kinsale


Castle in Kilkenney


An old Abbey in a town somewhere

Thursday morning we set off for the Beara Peninsula.  We opted for this peninsula rather than the Ring of Kerry or the Dingle Peninsula because it is a lot less touristy.  Cathy and I dislike tourists :)  It was absolutely breathtaking.  The drive along the coast and around the mountains was absolutely unbelievable.  Cathy and I never booked in advance for a room.  We just kind of relied on luck.  I guess the tourism is down in Ireland because we never had a problem.  We stumbled on this lone B&B up on a hill with the most beautiful view of the bay and Ring of Kerry.  Cathy and I grabbed our bottle of wine, sat in 2 chairs outside, and enjoyed the view.  It was surreal.  It was by far my favorite day.  


Stone Circle!

Beara Peninsula
Cathy and I drinking wine, sitting outside our B&B on the Beara Peninsula


Cathy scolding the dog on the wall away from the wine.  She's such a meanie!


Beara peninsula beach near our B&B

Beara Peninsula down the street from our B&B

Friday we set off for the Lakes of Killarney in Killarney National Park.  We got there a bit late (because we tend to really take our time) so we found a B&B on a farm (never could find any farm animals though).  We walked around the city of Killarney for awhile.  It is quite cute and very vibrant.  Irish towns are just beautiful.  So clean and so peaceful.  The people are so nice.  

Saturday we hiked to a waterfall and then took a jaunting cart ride to the Muckross House, a Fransiscan Abbey, and the park.  It was quite relaxing and very Kilkarneyish.  

Torc Waterfall


One of the lakes of Killarney



Muckross House


Paddy and Tommy - the jaunting cart ride



Old Abbey

Then we left to find a beach along the coast near the Cliffs of Moher.  Cathy decided to splurge so we ended up staying in a hotel on the water at the Spanish Point in County Clare.  

Beach near our hotel near the Cliffs of Moher

Sunday we drove through the Cliffs of Moher which are the tallest cliffs in ireland.  They are magnificent.



Then we drove over The Burren which is miles and miles of exposed limestone where no trees or much vegetation can grow.  It's quite strange looking.


Then we drove back to Dublin.  I know I left out most of the details but I'm absolutely exhausted and have to get up in 5 hours.  On to Germany!

Noel and Cathy at the MacMahon bridge near Noel's flat in Dublin

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Ireland!

Here are some pics of right when I was leaving Valfin-sur-Valouse, France.  

My french cousins

Cows love me and I love them :)

Valfin-sur-Valouse


I arrived in Ireland yesterday (Monday) night and my cousin Noel picked me up from the airport and we drove the hour to Dundalk.  My Aunt Cathy (from Atlanta) was already there.  We had a delicious Irish meal with Noel's parents and sister Caroline.  Then the relatives started arriving.  Sometimes you forget how many McMahons there are in Dundalk!  They just kept arriving (on foot b/c they all live on the same large property but in different houses) and the drinks kept flowing.  It was like a dream - being surrounding by so much family.  A few of whom I had never met but the family bond is there so you're instantly friends/family.  I loved just sitting back and watching them all talk.  What a different life.  A life of which I am quite jealous.  


Pat, Aunt Cathy, Rose (the matriach of us all)



One thing I quickly learned - you don't mess with Irish women.

I did realize this is my 4th time visiting them.  I hope I'm not wearing out my welcome! :)  Luckily, they are all amazing and I love them all.

Today (Tuesday) Cathy and I are setting out on our 7 day adventure touring southern Ireland.  Yahoo!!!!!

Blog instructions are in English again - yes!!!!

Sorry this is so long but I haven’t had internet for awhile.  Family is obligated to read this but friends can just look at the pics 


Lunch at the Professor’s was OK.  His wife made paella.  I didn’t like it.  The salad was OK but I’m looking forward to American salads…American food in general actually. We of course had wine (rose, this time) with lunch.  Then I went home, packed, cleaned, and finished “Lord of the Rings.”  I just am not a fan of that movie (s).  But at least it entertained me for over 10 hours.




I couldn’t sleep at all last night.  I always get so nervous/excited about trips.  I got up at 6am and finished packing and putting the house back together good as new.  My roommate is on a retreat for 3 weeks.  It was nice having the place to myself for the last 5 days.  


The Profesor drove me to the bus station in Pamplona.  

The gift I bought him - a pic of the UGA arch.


Then 2 hours later that bus dropped me off at the last Spanish train station before the French border.  I hopped a 5 minute train to cross the border to the French train station.  And here is where my traveling bad luck kicked in.  I went to the kiosk to try to pull up my Rail Europe e-ticket.  Couldn’t find it.  Then I stood in line to have an agent help me.  She couldn’t find my ticket either.  And basically she said she didn’t know how she could help me.  I was majorly pissed.  This train ticket cost me $200.  I had my reference number.  But apparently they said the name I was entering didn’t register.  B.S.  She suggested I walk 500 meters down the road to an internet café to try to pull up my email confirmation.  By this time, I had 27 minutes before the train left.  I ran to the internet café.  Closed.  15 mins and counting.  There I was, in a country where I know next to nothing of the language.  I was trying not to freak out (unsuccessfully).  I stopped in a random business and asked the lady (in english/spanish) to use her computer.  I explained my situation.  She basically said no.  French people.  I then started running back to the station and walked into another business.  This time, success.  I shouldn’t have tried to ask for a favor from a female…gotta go with the males.  He let me check my aol account for my e-ticket and even printed it out for me.  Apparently he only listens to American music and is a huge REM fan.  10 mins.  I ran back to the station.  The lady used my receipt to try to find my ticket.  It took a few minutes but she finally did.  She couldn’t tell me why we couldn’t find it before.  Idiots.  I ran down the platform toward the train.  3 mins to spare.  Dang.  


Train rides are my favorite part of traveling in Europe.  You can just sit back, relax, and enjoy the scenery.  Now I’m on my way to Lourdes.  Too bad there are 24 obnoxious 9 year olds throwing food over my head right now.  Patience, my dear, patience.


Woah, just passed a woman sunbathing topless in her backyard.  I need a coke.  I can’t decide if I wish I knew what the kids are saying or if I like that I can’t understand them.


Friday


I got to Lourdes on Thursday at 2pm.  I walked to my hotel that I had selected b/c it was cheap and was listed on TripAdvisor.  I hauled my suitcase about a half a mile up and down a couple hills.  I was very hot.  I got to the hotel, it was locked, and had a sign on the door that of course I couldn’t read.  I’d already put a down payment so I couldn’t just get another room.  I was standing there trying to figure out what to do when 2 young girls opened the door and told me to follow them.  What other choice did I have?  I followed them a few blocks to another hotel.  Apparently my hotel was under renovations so I had to stay at their other hotel.  Or at least I think that’s what was going on.  It was all very sketchy.  Anyway, I changed and started exploring the city.


Lourdes is a small city that pretty much solely caters to the religious visitors.  Every store is exactly the same and sells the exact same souvenirs.  It’s amazing how they can still stay in business.  The city is very cute though with it’s winding cobblestone streets surrounded by the Pyrenees mountains.  


The first thing I did was climb (i.e. take the elevator) to the top of a fort in the middle of the city.  It was awesome b/c it gave me a great view of the city and surrounding countryside.  


A real drawbridge!




View of the underground basillica (it's under the grass), the church, and the river running around it.


The underground basllica


I walked next to the area where the visitations occurred.  You can cross the river by your choice of a few bridges.  Then you have the beautiful basillica in front of you.  There is also the underground Basillica of St. Pius X.  It was incredible.  Can you image an entire cathedral underground?  It was incredible and absolutely enormous.  Then I walked to the Grotto.  I passed by the water taps that are said to have healing powers b/c the spring was created when the Virgin told Bernadette to dig a hole and all of a sudden there was a spring that has been providing water for over a hundred years.  Then was the grotto.  It’s a beautiful little indent in a wall of stone.  Very beautiful.



The large cathedral with the grotto in the bottom right



The Grotto


I ate dinner on the patio of a restaurant.  I also have discovered the most amazing beer in the whole entire world.  It’s not a specific beer but a combination of a type of beer and another ingredient.  I can’t wait to make it for all my friends!!!  It was delicious!  Then I went to see the Bernadette movie which told the story of her life and the visitations.  I’m still not sure what to believe.  


After the movie, I went back to the Basillica and the Grotto.  It was surreal b/c it was raining and there was lots of thunder and lightning.  It was breath-takingly beautiful and … holy.  I can’t describe it but I just felt at peace.  


Now (Friday) I’m on my way to Lyon.  But today is going a lot better than yesterday because…. I am in FIRST CLASS!  This leg of the journey only cost $5 extra to go in first class.  My seat is huge and it’s so comfortable.  Ahh, the life of the rich and famous 


Monday


Sorry but when you’re in a valley out in the country in eastern France, internet is hard to come by.  My cousins actually do have dial-up but it broke the day I got there.


Anyway, Friday night my cousins – Amandine (19), Manon (18), and Cinthia (13) picked me up from the train station.  We did a little bit of exploring Lyon.  We had crepes for dinner and dessert.  We spent the night in their flat in Lyon.  



View of Lyon from above


Saturday morning we drove an hour outside Lyon to a town market where their dad was selling their sheep cheese.  My cousins live in a village of 30 people in eastern France near Switzerland and they make sheep cheese.  Their father was at the market selling his cheese.  



Then we drove to Valfin-sur-Valouse which is about 2 hours outside Lyon.  It’s an adorable little village in a valley near the river Valouse.  I spent an amazing weekend with them.  I didn’t exactly help with the herding, milking, or feeding of the sheep, but I had a lot of fun petting them!  Most of the adult sheep were scared of me but the lambs loved me!  They wouldn’t stop baa-ing…I loved it!  




I snuck them extra food too so they would love me even more.










Having been born and raised in Atlanta, I just can’t imagine what growing up in a small town (of 30 people) would be like.  But this family is so close and they genuinely entertain themselves by talking and laughing together.  It’s amazing.  In my family, it’s hard to get 10 minutes with all of us together.  I was very jealous.


In addition to the different surroundings, I tried a lot of different food!  I tried sheep cheese which definitely tastes different than cow cheese.  I also tried frog legs (tastes a bit like chicken), guinea (tastes similar to chicken), this flower fried, and fresh apricots (i.e. not dried).  All the new food was quite tasty.  



My view out my window Monday morning.


The girls drove me to the Lyon airport this afternoon (sending me off with a box lunch complete with a beer) and I’m on my way to Ireland now to meet up with my cousins on the other side of my family (Dad’s side).  I love family!  Au revoir!!!!  Bon voyage!!!  Merci!!! (the extent of my french).

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Final Thoughts on Spain

I've only been here 7 weeks so you can take this is a grain of salt.  But here are some things I've noticed in my short time in Pamplona.

1) The Spanish people do not seem to have a sense of patriotism like the people in the USA.  This fact was pointed out to me by a very accomplished member of the Pamplona city council.  He said that the one thing he envies most about the USA is our sense of patriotism and nationalism.  The Spanish people, for the most part, do not have that.  

2) Along the same lines, there seems to be no strong affiliations with sports teams here besides the football (soccer) teams.  However, even that is not broadcast.  I mean, there are NO bumper stickers on any cars.  In the states, I have my UGA sticker on my car.  But here, no bumper stickers on any cars.

3) I do not like eating lunch at 2pm and dinner at 10pm.  By noon I am starving and I don't like going to bed right after dinner.

4) Don't the people here get sick of the same food all the time?  All it is is bocadillos (sandwiches with ham, tortilla, or cheese), tortillas, and paella.  

5) I love how the Spanish try to conserve things - everyone recycles and there are even individual lights for restroom stalls.  And when people leave a room, they usually turn off the lights.  Here, in my section of the library, there are automatic lights that go on and off as you pass.  Not to mention that people walk most places.

6) I hated the exchange rate.  When is the dollar gonna get back it's value?  I really did not enjoy paying $7.50 for a smoothie.

7) If you don't have a small dog, you're not cool.

8) No females every wear shorts working out.  Sexism is what I call it.  I had fun breaking that rule :)

9)  EVERYONE says "Buenas Dias" and "Hola" and "Hasta luego" to EVERYONE.  They are so nice to each other.  

10) Pan (bread) is the bread of life here.  And coffee with milk goes along with that.

11) Drinking wine/beer with lunch is expected.

11) Flowers are a must decorating the balcony of your apartment.

12) Regular work day:  9:30 - 2:30pm; 4:30 - 7:30pm.

13) There are no dryers.  Everyone sees everyone else's underwear drying.  I find this strange.  But I like it.

14) Sometimes the locals can understand me better when I speak english than when I speak spanish b/c apparently my accent is so bad.

15) No tipping - ever!  A blessing and a curse.  Saves money but service stinks!

16) Sodas come with lemons and everything (beer included) is always poured from the bottle into a glass.  Classy in my opinino.

17) Wine is cheaper than a soda.

Just some thoughts!  :)

Time to Move On

Ok, so I got back from camping on Saturday early afternoon.  I then just chilled for the rest of the day.  That night, I met up with some friends of my roommate and we watched the fireworks.  Then, we walked around a bit and ended up at an outdoor concert that had tons of food options.  But honestly, I was bored.  There were about a million people around.  This particular weekend, and specifically Saturday, is the busiest, craziest day of San Fermin because the most people of the whole 9 days are there.  Basically, I hated it.  There were drunk people everywhere, the streets were yucky, and I didn't even feel like drinking.  I think I just wasn't in the mood to be out.  There was awesome music but I was too worried about my rainbows (sandals) getting dirty.  So, like a wuss, I left at 1:30am when everyone else was trying to stay up until the encierro (bull run) at 8am.  




Sunday I was supposed to go to a Bodega (winery) out in the country but I was too tired to get out of bed.  So instead, I did nothing.  It was nice.  I did end up watching the fireworks though.  Of course, by this time, I'm feeling very lazy so I didn't even leave my house.  I watched the fireworks from my balcony - yeah.

Still a good view, don't ya think?

Monday I hopped a bus to San Sebastian in the hopes of getting some sun before I left. Oh, as I walked to the bus station, I snapped a photo of the poor souls who slept outside.  I completely know how they feel considering back in 2000 when I came for a couple days, we slept outside on the grass for 2 nights.  It was NOT enjoyable.  Thankfully, this time, I had a nice, comfortable bed to go home too.  Beds are nice.


 Well, unfortunately the day was overcast and a bit chilly.  And no, I did not sunbathe topless although check out the girl next to me :)





Tuesday I met up with my roommate for coffee at 1pm.  Then I went to Yamaguchi park and laid out there.  No use spending $18 for a bus ride to/from San Sebastian when I can lay out 3 blocks away.  But man, I am a red now :)  It'll turn to tan soon and my Irish cousin Noel will be quite jealous.  I don't even think he knows what the word "sunbathing" means.


Last night (Tuesday) I watched the movie "Georgia Rule."  Although it was in english, I made sure to put the subtitles in castellano (spanish) so I could practice my spanish.  Oh, and it was also the last day of San Fermin - yahoo!!!!!!

Today (Wednesday) is my last full day in Pamplona.  I am kind of sad but I'm also so excited to continue on with my adventures.  I am ready to explore France and Ireland and Germany.  7 weeks in one place is a long time.  I am quite ready to move on.

My Professor invited me over to lunch at his house.  Quite an honor.  His wife is making paella.  I'm excited but also a tad bit stressed because I have so much to do before I leave.  Note to everyone - I think I have eaten flan every day for the last 7 weeks, and it has been incredible :)

On to Lourdes, Francia!!!!